Sunday 18 September 2011

Green tomatoes are hot!

My husband knows about gardening and he says growing tomatoes outside in this country is hard, even in 'Mediterranean' London..  If you have a greenhouse, they ripen beautifully but maybe there just isn't enough sun to turn those tiny green nodules into little red bombs that explode in your mouth. I plan to follow a friend's advice and pack them in a drawer with a red tomato or a banana, to see if they turn....


But in the meantime, I love making green tomato chutney.  Last year I tried Niger Slater's recipe with red and green tomatoes but in the end I preferred this one, which commits to using only the green, but adds apples. This last ingredient seems essential to create the desired gloopiness of a perfect chutney.


The recipe comes from  'The Preserving Book' published by Pan, which I found in a charity shop in Bath and which I imagine is now out of print.   It was written in the seventies, when people were able to get  home brew sets from Boots and 'The Good Life' was on the TV.  The writers are farmer's wives and stalwarts in the WI; the only male contributor (naturally) is responsible for the chapter on wine making and beer-making.


The addition of the ginger and chillies makes the taste of this chutney initially warm and then quite fiery, but complements the green tomatoes, which can be bitter.  I have to say I used birds eye chillies and had cold feet about keeping the bag in the mix for all of the cooking. Taste the chutney as it simmers and make your own decision.  The recipe says, simmer for one hour but mine took longer.  As in all chutney recipes, it is better to overcook than undercook.


Ingredients
2kg (4lbs) green tomatoes
500g (1lb) cooking apples
750g (1.5lb) onions, chopped
250g (8oz) seedless raisins
500g (1lb) soft brown sugar
625 (1pint) vinegar
15g (1/2oz) ginger
15g (1/2oz) salt
12 red chillies


Yield: about 3.5kg (7lbs)


Cut up the tomatoes without peeling.  Peel and core the apples and chop them.

Put all the tomatoes, apples and raisins into the preserving pan.  Add the sugar, vinegar and salt. Tie the chillies in piece of muslin and suspend in the pan.  Bring to boil, stir well and simmer for one hour, until thick and golden brown.  Remove the bag of chillies.

Put into hot jars, cover and seal.

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